Well this week just flew by! It's Friday (again)—and time for Sex and the Office Summer Fridays: our romp through Helen Gurley Brown's 1965 cult classic, Sex and the Office. The definitive, comprehensive guide to working life for an entire generation of women, Sex and the Office offered advice on how to deal with your boss, manage office politics, and make the most of personal and professional opportunities in the office. Find out what it was really like to be a working girl "back in the day". Read on—for this week's excerpt from Helen Gurley Brown's iconic Sex and the Office!
MANY AN “EXPERT” ADVISES working girls to keep make-up to a bare minimum. An office, they say, isn’t the place to razzle and it isn’t the place to dazzle, and the only thing to smell like is a bar of Fels Naptha (no Nuit de Longchamps, Joy, or any of that nonsense). Well, I’m convinced the experts must all be left-at-home wives who, if they had their way, would also have office girls wear shrouds and nettles. Of course you don’t keep your make-up at the office to a bare minimum! For the love of heaven an office is where the men are!
Men like girls to look natural. Of course they do, but that doesn’t mean truly natural—eyebrows strolling straight across the nose-bridge or not showing up anywhere (some girls don’t have any, poor darlings). Au naturel would mean saffron-colored skin, mop-water colored hair … really, I can’t go on!
Advising a girl to keep her make-up to a bare minimum is usually hooked in with that nonsense about letting your beautiful soul shine through—especially if you are a plain girl. Fooling with make-up is supposed to be only for narcissistic beauties. The truth is, a plain girl frequently has a wretchedly unattractive soul but her soul takes on luster when she uses make-up or has her nose fixed or puts on her wig. I know all about what fixing can do for the average girl. When I’m on a television show in my padded bra, capped teeth, straightened nose, Pan-Cake, false eyelashes and wig I may not be natural, but I’m absolutely glorious!
If you want to feel princessy and have things happen to you at the office, I suggest you wear plenty of make-up but put it on naturally. (I’ll tell you how.) If you are only dabbing on the merest dab of powder and daubing on the merest daub of lipstick to wear to work, you should face it. You’re hiding out! You’re afraid to be a beauty! Wearing make-up does put you “on” all right. Men notice you, men strike up conversations with you, and men even get the idea you’re interested in them and they respond. You can’t lie low and be squashy and safe and comfortable and unnoticed the way an un-made-up girl can.
All right, how do you get the “naturally” beautiful look that men love? You get it by using a foundation, make-up, two kinds of rouge, lipstick, eye shadow, eye liner, eyebrow pencil, mascara and powder. And I’m going to tell you right now how to use them “naturally.”
HOW TO DO A PERFECT MAKE-UP JOB
This is the works. From beginning to end. It was taught to me by Jane Rasché at the Max Factor make-up salon in Hollywood, where I have often seen Jane and her boss, Hal King, transform the faces of fifty-year-old frumpy ladies into quite pretty faces, as well as take ten years off of celebrities! If you’re just a regular plain girl, these particular techniques can make you radiant.
Perhaps you feel you can’t handle the entire procedure every day before you go to the office. (I don’t see why not. You could get up at 5:00 A.M. and go to bed right after sundown!) It is possible to get in most of the steps every morning but just not do them as painstakingly as if you had lots of time.
1. Start with a clean face. Liquid cleansers are great. Cold cream has to melt on your face to get to the stage liquid cleanser is when you pour it from the bottle. That makes cold cream slower. Soap and water are thorough but soapy … and drying.
2. Pat on a lotion or astringent. This feels nice; that’s the main thing you can say about it. It is also supposed to close pores, and you don’t want to go running around with your pores open! Of course you don’t.
3. Put on a moisturizer (I’ll tell you about a great inexpensive one in a minute). The moisturizer is said to keep the moisture in your face all day, and I’m sure if it does that, that’s good. I really don’t know. Anyway, it makes your face creamy-smooth to start putting your make-up on top of, and a moisturizer feels nice to your skin, too.
4. Put on your favorite make-up (liquid, cake, whatever). Smooth it over your face everywhere. Don’t be a scaredy cat about under the eyes. That area’s part of your face too. The idea is to smooth on a second skin. Blend the make-up down to just below the jaw-line, not clear over the throat.
5. If you have heavy shadows under your eyes, use Max Factor’s Erace over this area. Choose one shade lighter than your own skin tone because you want to lighten the shadows. Also use Erace on nose-to-mouth lines.
6. Dab fluid rouge high on cheekbones just under eyes. Blend it across these bones with your fingers and down just a little on the cheeks, but don’t have a lot of rouge in the fleshy part of your cheeks unless your face is very full. Rouge causes shadows and will make you look sunken-cheeked if placed too low.
7. Now powder over everything with translucent powder. Your make-up will have supplied the color for your face. Powder over lips and eyelids too because this sets your make-up. If you use loose powder, transfer it to a bottle with holes in the top and shake it out onto a puff or cotton ball. Powder lashes too. All powdered? Brush powder from your face with a powder brush.
8. Draw a ribbon of eye shadow from the inner corner of your eye to the outer edge, tilting the shadow up just a bit at the outer corner so your eyes won’t look droopy. Stroke the shadow close to the lashes. Shadow looks best on most girls when it goes up over only half the lid. You can experiment with it all the way up to the eyebrow, however, and look at yourself.
If your eyes are deep set, a light shade of eye shadow—pale blue or green—will bring your eyes out to meet the man who’s looking at you. If your eyes aren’t sunk in very deeply, a darker shade of eye shadow will give them depth. If you use shadow from a tube, powder over it to set the color. Powdered eye shadow from a bottle is already “set.”
9. Use a tiny brush to outline your eyes with eye liner. Start from the center of the upper lid and, staying fiercely close to the lash, draw a line to the outer corner of the eye. Then go back and fill in from the center of the lid to the inner eye. Use the side of the brush to do this—you’ll get in trouble trying to use the very tip. When the brush is practically dry, line your lower lashes. You want only a breath of color for a shadowy effect. Go under the lashes, dear. Don’t daub on top of them.
Fluid eye liner which comes in a little bottle usually dries up rather quickly. Max Factor’s Black Pan-Cake is great for eye liner and doesn’t. Moisten an eye-liner brush with water and just run it over the cake of Black Pan-Cake as though it were mascara. One cake—$1.50 plus tax—should last easily a lifetime. I sometimes brush on eyebrows with it instead of using a pencil. Any Max Factor counter should be able to order Black Pan-Cake for you if they don’t carry it. (No, this company doesn’t pay me.)
10. This is the point where you put on false eyelashes if you’re wearing them. The secret to putting them on without trauma is to get just the merest whisper of a line of the glue across the top edge of the lash. After the lashes are on, line the upper eyelid again with liner. Just paint right over the strips of lash—it won’t hurt them.
11. With a razor blade sharpen your eyebrow pencil to a wedge-shape (not round like from the pencil sharpener). Now draw tiny little strokes that look like hairs to fill out your eyebrows. The part of the brow closest to the nose should be the lowest point. The very center of your eye is the highest—you can go a little heavy with pencil there. Then pencil on out to the outer edge of the eye. You can lift a little at the edge if you like. Never curve the brow downward or you’ll look like a beagle.
All eyebrow pencils are good as far as I know, but I’m mad about a pencil you buy in the stationery store—an Eagle Chemi-seal #315 veri-black. The color is actually a soft charcoal grey that’s very flattering to brunettes. The pencils are seventy-five cents for a box of a dozen. Six girls could go in together and own two pencils apiece for just thirteen cents a girl.
12. Apply mascara. Brush it on top of the lash as well as under the lash and add mascara to false lashes too. It combines fake and real to look all-real.
I think a regular big eyebrow brush about half the size of a toothbrush (instead of the teeny-tiny brush that come with the product) is best for applying mascara. I also like cake mascara because you can work up a really good case of eyelashes! While you do one eye, the other lashes will dry from their application. You can do as many as six applications to each eye if you want to build really beautiful lashes (and get to work at twelve noon!). A working-girl friend of mine washes everything off her face but mascara and leaves her “lashes” on from one month to the next. “You protect your nails with three coats of polish,” she says. “Why not your lashes?” She may have a point. Anyway, it’s fun to go to bed with big, black fringy Elizabeth Taylor eyelashes when you’re used to seeing yourself with naked Elizabeth I eyes at bedtime.
13. Put on your lipstick. Since “colorless” lips are chic, you may want to outline your lips with a darker shade—and use a brush, for goodness sake—then fill in with a lighter shade. If your mouth goes down at the corners, give it a bit of a lift with a tiny upward line of your brush. You know all about drawing in a completely different mouth than the one you own—beefing up here, minimizing there. Of course you do!
14. For the royal coup to make you look like a glowing angel, dust cheekbones ever so lightly—but lightly—with dry rouge stroked on with a powder brush. Try it! It looks heavenly.
15. Lily gilding: If you are not using Erace or another product to cover under-eye smudges and they still seem to show a bit through your make-up, take a 5/8? brush, dip it in your make-up foundation and paint lightly over the shadows. Do you realize what a wicked woman you are? You are painting your face—and is it ever fun and flaw-hiding!
16. Final Touch! Dampen a small silk sponge with water and gently pat it all over your face. This gives you an alive little glow no matter how much make-up you’re wearing … voilà, the natural look!
These instructions work with anybody’s cosmetics. As a matter of fact, I find it hard to buy bad ones, including those from the dime store. I won’t bore you with any more of my personal choices. I will tell you about just one that does the work of at least three so that you can save maybe twenty dollars a year. A little jewel called Lubri-Derm (made by Texas Pharmacal Company and usually located in the drugstore) is a hand and body lotion, a great moisturizer (as good as any high-priced ones I’ve ever used) to go under make-up, and can also be worn overnight as a light night cream. A roomy pint bottle is about $2.50.
I was going to give you a recipe for making your own cold cream to keep in your desk drawer. After assembling all the ingredients and locking myself in the kitchen for three days, I got a yield of one tiny jar, two scorched palms, and I don’t know how many naughty oaths to my record for a cash outlay of $3.89. Obviously it wasn’t worth it! I am jotting down the recipe for a dandy mask, however, that will send you radiant and wantable to the office if you use it the night before.
Sex and the Office: Lunch with "the Girls"
Sex and the Office: Love Your Boss
For more Sex and the Office (and the recipe for Helen's own "dandy mask"). . . .